Friday, March 4, 2016

Quick update and photo dump

While most of these pictures are already on Facebook or Instagram for folks that have neither or want a refresher here's a blast from the past. Unfortunately, or rather fortunately I've been super busy since well I finished work in August and began bolting in Redstone, then moving to the Creek for 7 weeks took up some time and when heading to Thailand and Laos for another 6 1/2 weeks occurred I continued to not update this. Then I got back to Aspen and Glenwood and began having the best ski days of my life for another 6ish weeks and well now it's desert season so I find my self making increasingly frequent trips out there to climb! Needless to say I'm psyched!
Crack Wars Anchor Replacement Mission

Summit of the Rectory

Airbag fun

Sometimes you crash snowmobiles.

Onsight attempt of Fairy Tales 5.13-

Sunrise in Marble, CO

Final summit of a nice long ridge traverse ending on Ant Peak

Most of the ridge we traversed.
Castleton in all it's glory

Thursday, October 22, 2015

Holy Guacamole It's been a while

Once again I've fallen behind on my posts and again, I refuse to apologize for it as I've been distracted by living the dream.

For the past month and a half I've been working on my weaknesses as a climber, DIYer and driver. I've also been getting back to my roots, gaming my face off whenever possible and having boat loads of fun doing all of this.

The view from the base of the new climb.
After kicking off my unemployment I got talked into bolting and projecting a new route with a couple friends outside of Carbondale, CO. While that act in and of itself is fairly unremarkable, the fact that the route is by leaps and bounds the hardest route I've ever bolted and tried to climb. This oddity has forced my to learn how to project, trying and failing over and over and over with minimal or no noticeable progress while trying to change that and keep motivation high. Prior to this experience I'd never tried a route more than 10-12 times and the hardest route I've done was in fewer than that. I suspect that this route has seen over the last month close to 30-35 tries and while I can now climb into the crux sequence there were a few show stopper moves that were rather disheartening. So I decided to hit the pause button, train this winter (also a new concept for me) and head to the desert to hopefully heal the ego and get fit and tan!

While it might not be waterproof, it's got a sweet clock!
Before heading to the desert I realized that with the resources available to me in the Roaring Fork Valley I ought to seal up the Dolphin's roof for any rain storms that I might happen upon while in the desert. Needless to say that I'm no expert roofer (is that a word?) and working on the Dolphin's roof has given me a huge appreciate for what those guys do! Unfortunately the RV roof has turned into another project with several goes already invested and a leak or two still persisting much to my frustration. As I sit here writing it continues to rain, as it has for the past few days...luckily I've invested in a 20x30' tarp that is keeping the rain out while I come up with another way to fix the roof once and for all!

Driving the Dolphin has been quite the adventure as the transition from a mini van to a 22' RV hasn't been rocky but has involved a little close contact with a rock or two and a picnic bench. Luckily, neither the RV or the stationary objects were harmed. One day I'll get the parallel parking dialed in that thing...until then be wary while I'm reversing! Despite the unwieldy nature of this beast the trade off is sooo much living space. Which of course means guests and games! I'm happy to say that dozens of hours have been spent cooking with friends, drinking beer and playing all manner of games late in to the night or early morning. The fact that it's so easy to have people over and comfortably hang out was one of the main reasons that I switched from being a lowly van dweller in to a real person living in a dilapidated RV.

It's felt so good to get back to the desert and the long haul mindset of staying there, working on new and old mini projects, reequiping old routes, cleaning, bolting and sending new ones, catching up with old friends and making new ones. I've gone on and on about the climbing community, particularly the dirtbag climbing community and again, I have had my weeks made by these fantastic people!

Well until next time faithful readers!

Canyoneering the the desert can be pretty neat!

Thursday, September 10, 2015

Throwback to 2012, How Times Haven't Changed Too Much!

What a sucker I was still working in September. Man have I come a ways since then...though thinking back I think this post marked the end of my employment session that year. So I guess things haven't changed except for that soul patch haha. Howie Mandel is probably really disappointed!

Well, after leaving Anza and staff training I made a quick stop over in LA to visit with my aunt, uncle and grandfather before heading up north. After visiting, getting my life mildly organized, showering, doing laundry and figuring out they best way to get to Yosemite I set off up the 395. I made only one slight detour, perhaps a personal best and a few quick stops to pick up a hitch hiker and to look through some tubes pointed at Mt. Whitney in Lone pine and to check out the Mobil in Lee Vining. That gas station was perhaps more impressive than I thought it would be, I was half way tempted to drop the 20 bucks for their seared mahi mahi steak.

After arriving in Tuolumne I went for a short (~7mile) hike up to Cathedral lakes to enjoy a beer chilled in the alpine waters while watching the sun drift below the horizon. After realizing that my hunger couldn't be avoided any longer I cruised back to the van for some sort of delicious meal, not sure what it was, but I'm sure I went to flavor country. From there I went to the campground for the night.

I woke up early the next morning for a quick jaunt up Cathedral peak, first to summit of the day, heck ya! After a quick snack and nap on the summit I went down to Budd lake for a refreshing and cleansing dip. Not too shabby. After getting back to the car for lunch and eating I set off for the Meadows for some afternoon reading and relaxation.
Summit shot on Cathedral Peak

Afternoon view in Tuolumne

The next day after talking with a nice couple I caught the 2nd shuttle down to Tenaya lake and then hiked up to and climbed Dozier Dome, I was considering doing a second route but the descent was a bit rough on the ole knees so I finished off the morning with a nine mile toodle back up to the meadows where I gorged myself and spent another afternoon relaxing and reading.

On top of Dozier Dome looking out over Lake Tenaya

After being rudely awoken by rain in the wee hours of the morning I shifted to the van as I had been sleeping next to the road in a perhaps less than legitimate manner and had not set up a tent. Shortly after rousing myself I had an invigorating conversation with a ranger, though fear not my charm won out and no ticket was issued! After the officer left I proceeded down to Sequoia and King's Canyon NP for my Boojum course. That story is to follow.