It's time for a new home and new projects

About three weeks ago I purchased a Toyota Dolphin; I felt that it was time to upgrade my living quarters as over the past year I have grown tired of living full time in the shoe box of a Previa that I currently have. Yes I suppose I will be changing the name of the blog for all that have already asked.

I happened upon the Dolphin while walking down the sidewalk in Newcastle, CO and noticed it sitting amidst a bunch of other vehicles at a mechanic's shop. The next day I got this fellow's number and asked if it was for sale, luckily it was. I gave it a quick tour asked what he wanted for it, waited a few weeks and put up with some shenanigans, gave it a test drive and just before the 4th of July I bought that sucker.

It was hard in the time period before buying it to not think too much of what needed to be done and what I wanted to do to it, in the event that the sale fell through. But, when the title was in hand the demolition began with big dreams and high energy.

That was three weeks ago, granted I went on one last road trip in the Previa to the midwest in the middle, but now I sit here having just finished the new flooring and painting the walls, slightly exhausted. Last I'd checked the work tally was up to about 37 hours of work and several hundreds of dollars of materials.

Stay tuned for the final pictures but here are some before and during renovation pictures.

Also, if you or anyone you know would like to buy a Toyota Previa with a full living setup, give me a shout!

All ready for game night!

So excited to have a sweet cooking setup and a fridge!

The above are pre-remodel and the following are during.

Fresh Paint!

Ripped out this ceiling panel because of rot and water damage.

New floor!

Part of the bathroom removal

Most of the bathroom

All of the bathroom

Quivers for All!

Coloradans love their quivers, there is no questioning that; you can talk to just about any active local Coloradan and many of the folks that have moved here and are blending in, what their favorite ski, bike, climbing shoes, fill in the gear blank. You'll likely receive a response something along the lines of "Well...for_____? Or ________? I've got my powder, rock, resort, backcountry, nordic, skate etc. skis for all those different conditions (or lack of), or downhill, crosscountry, cruiser, road bikes...or slab, offwidth, thin crack, sport, all day, climbing shoes."  

Photo by Elliot Bernhagen

I realized this morning while driving from a local bouldering area to scout out a new fly fishing area, before swimming some laps and going for a mountain bike ride with my uncle, that I have quivers for my quiver of sports. Yes, I have a problem and I'm not trying to solve it at the moment, as the more that I considered it I began to consider that this might be the key to dealing with unexpected variances in weather, energy levels, availability of partners etc. This spring has been rainy and full of work and so climbing has been side lined in favor of fly fishing and a bit of mountain biking. When weather has been better and partners more abundant, I climb. It's been awesome because it means that instead of wallowing in a coffee shop while it rains I still get outside (I do also acknowledge that here in the west I've been spoiled by the 330+ days of sun each year). 

Not stellar ski conditions? Try ski blading!
Photo by Todd Babos

The downside of course to all of this is those dolla billz, and finding ways to fund all of these experiences and passions. I find that I am constantly turning down more sports because I lack the room in the van for a kayak or surf board and because those funds are better spent on refining my current quivers. Growing up I always thought of myself having a summer activity and a winter activity and that was my quiver. I find it's not quite so simple any more with the fair and foul weather outdoor pursuits for every season...but eight sports isn't so many right? 

How many sports are in your quiver? Why? Which would you like to add?

Perfect temps in a nice weather window on Moonlight Buttress in Zion N.P.
Photo by Derek Chang

Great weather on a ski tour in the Elk Mountains.
Photo by Todd Babos

Another attempt at Moonlight Buttress and dodging the rain

The feeling of relief is tangible as I pull in to the East entrance of Zion National Park.

Not a bad view to wake up to.

 This spring has more closely resembled a pinball game for me than a climbing trip since I left Aspen and my seasonal employment. First venturing into the desert, climbing with huge rain storms rolling through valleys to either side, mountain biking the White Rim trail through Canyonlands through rain, snow, hail and plenty of lightning. Then being chased from the San Luis Valley after climbing a couple of days in Penitente Canyon by more storms...or the same one recirculating around the west. Then driving to Denver on rumors of a weather window, only to find more torrential rains and lightning across the horizon. I found myself back in Moab in scorching temps and clear blue skies, climbing with out a shirt and sweating bullets. Then after a couple of desert tower summits bagged and about 12 hours in Indian Creek, right on time the downpours started again, turning our campsite into a small pond and the creek into an obstacle not to be underestimated.

I bailed to the Roaring Fork Valley to regroup and look for a weather windown...anywhere. I quickly discovered that every significant climbing area in the U.S. was either being actively rained on or was about to receive significant precipitation. A few days later the forecast looked good enough in Moab to mountain bike for a few days before potentially resume the rocks climbing adventures. A modelling opporunity fell into my lap. I returned, driving out proved to be largely uneventful aside from the van in front of me rolling a couple of times just outside of Moab. Was this a bad omen? Eh, who has time to worry about such things when trying to calm a concussed and highly irritated driver.

The end of the JEM Trail in Virgin, UT.

Thankfully, the next day found my rising with the sun, donning my bike kit and riding off for a morning ride on the Mag 7 trail, one highly recommended, that I'd never ridden before. A couple of post-ride boxes of Annies with avocado and bacon, a beer and a nap and I was more psyched than ever! As I woke the next morning I could feel the positive momentum building as I kitted up again and prepared to ride in circles, back and forth, up and down the slick rock for my friend Dan. I felt great as I lapped slickrock ledges and talked shot angles and shutter speeds. And then it began raining again.

Looking up at Moonlight Buttress from the base.

That night I met up with a few friends and was convinced to join them on their road trip to California, with the rain over Moab not forecasted to clear anytime soon and with pre-established plans to meet a climbing partner in Zion, I was convinced! The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast at the Moab Diner, we caravaned off. Along the way stopping and checking out several National Parks on the side roads heading west. Lots of laughs later I could feel the frustration of being foiled by the weather time and time again, slowly releasing.

The view from the first night's spot.

But, it wasn't until the road into Zion, lit by the last rays of sun that I knew for certain that this was where the driving ended. I pulled into a BLM pullout down the road from Springdale and sighed, psyched to just be present in such an awesome place. And so, I find myself happily writing away underneath Moonlight Buttress, after an awesome mountain bike ride this morning, with climbing plans on the horizon, a fortunate result of the closeness fo the climbing community and smallness of the world. A couple of ascents of Moonlight (1,200ft, 5.12+) are planned, and I am more excited than ever to get ,back on it to try and free it again.
-
I have to say that while I gripe about the rains and snows this spring I am super glad that they're coming late rather than never for the snowpack and much needed moisture for the west and first ascents, I realize will be there in the fall or whenever the rains slow.

Chris and Oli, thawing out and racking up.

The view from the top of pitch two.

Justin taking off on pitch seven.

The top of pitch nine I think

Soooooo good!

The view from the top of Moonlight