Friday, December 27, 2013

Tips, tricks and the shortcomings of winter van living P.1

So I should preface this post with the statement that the following points are in no particular order and all can be equally valid when living in a vehicle during the colder months or might be all equally irrelevant, sometimes it's hard to say.


The van loves snow so much that sometimes it even needs to be pushed into moving. 



#1 Wine and beer do not freeze well. (This is number one because the learning experience was a rather poignant one.) I think this one is fairly self-explanatory, if you freeze them through the bottles will explode and leave you with a wine or beer slushy all over the interior of your vehicle. This will make you sad.

#2 Small scented candles are wonderful. During the winter I have found that I'm less inclined to let the van 'air' out as that's also letting out precious heat. As a result of this the smell of cooking, flatulence and dirty clothes can linger. If you're driving anyone around or spending anytime kicking it in your van/car yourself it can be nice to just sweep that eau d' you under the rug with a scented candle until you get a break in the weather for an air out session. Nice bonus is the heat gained from the candle flame, it's just the right size to warm your hands over in the morning or before climbing into bed.

#3 Water can be a bit tricky for the same reason (though not as messy) as #1. My way around water freezing solid, and thus inaccessible in water bottles or bladders is a little personalized but you may be able to extrapolate or adapt this strategy for yourselves. I will use what ever water I need at night for cooking and hot beverages and the remaining water is divided between my kettle (a standard enameled camping kettle) and my coffee percolator, so that in the morning I am able to reach over to my stove from the security and warmth of my sleeping bag and set those two to boiling, thus minimizing my time spent in the cold air and raising the level of stoke while waiting for a hot cup of coffee. Basically, just store your water in a place where, when it freezes you can easily melt it.

Remember in the winter time if you run out of water and you're in a snowy environment, in a pinch you can always melt snow, though it can be rather time consuming to get a sizable quantity of water this way but if you live in a van, chances are you have the time. Just stay away from snow that's not white...

#4 Layering. If you've spent anytime being active in the cold you understand the importance of layering. If you have not, the idea is as you get warmer you can drop layers and still maintain decent warmth and as you get cold you can add layers to trap warmth. This is true for the winter van dweller also but can be applied to more than just your clothes. I use layering in my sleeping set up as my sleeping bag is not sufficient alone on -20F nights so I have a light cotton liner (this is also for ease of washing), and several blankets and a quilt I can pile on top of my sleeping bag for the coldest nights. On warmer nights I might just sleep with my sleeping bag unzipped and as a blanket.

#5 Just to keep things complicated a super warm puffy is awesome and pretty much a requirement. Mine is one from PHD, you can check out their stuff via the link over >. This is awesome for when you first emerge from your sleeping bag, into your chilly interior or more importantly for when you venture out into the frigid world you are choosing to live in. A puffy just makes you feel all warm and fuzzy, literally and figuratively.

#6 Mess control. I'm still working on this one myself as my messes seem to ebb and flow but basically it's even easier to turn that small living environment into a pig stye during the winter than during the summer because you're wearing more layers that eventually have to be taken off and put somewhere, I, at least, am less inclined to organize in the cold because I'm hesitant to open doors and let out the warm air. Washing dishes is also less appealing because wet hands are cold hands and that sucks in the winter. This can be mitigated by washing dishes at work or friends houses where it's warm or by sucking it up and doing them in warm water and having a quick way to dry your hands, or just by not doing them and eating off dirty dishes.
                                    
                                             Argh, the dreaded mess can befall even me.

#7 Drying stuff kind of goes hand-in-hand with #6 in that when you're tromping around in the snow or whatever your clothes will get wet, whether it's from sweat or snow, and if you're like me and enjoy a winter sport or two then you know that ski or ice boots love to collect ice in all their nooks and crannies  and that it is far from the most enjoyable feeling to jam your toasty feet into a frozen liner and wait for your feet to thaw it out and then rewarm them. To avoid this, if possible put them in front of your vents when driving (this is imperfect but helps) or whenever possible bring them inside, this goes for liners as well as layers. I know that I try and wear wet layers in to work to hang and dry while I'm doing my thing.

A sample of a growing mess - note the missing boot liners.


Dampness is a huge thing in the winter van living because it is so present. This is a result as I said of bringing in the moisture from the outside as well as the condensation that occurs while sleeping, which is fairly unavoidable. I'm currently trying to experiment with silica and/or rice to absorb some of that moisture and I'll hopefully have results fairly soon to share.

I have spontaneously decided to make this a two part post as this is getting to be longer than anticipated and I am still just a little ways through my list and have not even gotten to some of the juicy stuff (besides boot liners).

So stay tuned for details on potty talk and personal hygiene, cooking, entertainment, heaters and my thoughts on planning. Until then here are a few pictures to keep the psyche high.

A day out climbing in December at the Puoux in Glenwood.

A delightful day in the backcountry with the Pearces. Looking over the Roaring Fork Valley.


Thursday, December 5, 2013

Snow is piling up and I'm returning to employment again...

So in the past month I have eased myself back into the working life with a relaxing two weeks on, two weeks of schedule which I could certainly get used to! After the last post I was working and getting trained on the latest and greatest winter good for this season for what seemed to be 12 hours a day 14 days in a row, a slight exaggeration but still exhausting. So when I found out with a little shift swapping I could get nearly two weeks off that coincided with a group of friends going to Joshua Tree I was psyched.

So for the last couple weeks I have been enjoying the often balmy temperatures of southern California in tandem with the granitic pluton, friends and some good ol' rocks climbing. Basically I got spanked by 90% of the climbs there and did not get on anything particularly difficult, I did get plenty of mileage in soloing moderates and rallying up some awesome climbs with a handful of motivated individuals, needless to say it was awesome.

Thanksgiving was spent with many friends at a buddies' house; which was the coolest house I think I have ever been in. Thanksgiving day was spent pouring over dozens of books detailing the climbing history of CA, picture books of climbing around the world, guide books and climbing magazines, as well as chuckin' some hatchets (safely of course), cooking up a feast and marveling at Keanu Reeves acting mastery in Point Break (if you haven't seen it, it might be worth watching).

After thanksgiving we returned to the desert for a few short days of climbing and exploring the desert before returning to Durango and for me Aspen.

I'm now back in Aspen working away and trying to figure out how to stay comfortably warm and ski as much as possible. With a foot of snow on the ground and night time temperatures dropping to -16 F (as of last night) I'm getting back in to the swing of winter van living and taking notes for the next post on tips, tricks and the shortcomings of living in a van in the colder, darker months of the year.

About the photos...I kept telling myself to pull out the camera the whole trip to J-Tree and so I didn't take any pictures but here are a few some friends took. I'll see about getting some for the next post.


Thanksgiving card game (screw the dealer)
 Photo by Taryn Pearce

Figures on a Landscape with Spence
 Photo by Annie Edgecomb

Preparing for the zombie apocalypse
 Photo by Jenna Pearce

Arete slapping
 Photo by Jenna Pearce

Monday, November 4, 2013

Snow is falling and employment begins again.

I now find myself back in Aspen, CO after what seems like a blink of an eye. Though in that moment I think I have racked up over 60 hours of driving, four states, one government shutdown, hundreds of pitches climbed and who knows how many beers consumed. So I guess it wasn't the worst time of my life.

After my last update I worked for about two more weeks before heading down to Durango to hang out for a few days and ready myself for the road tripping that was about to commence. From Durango, I drove out to my seasonal home, Indian Creek. There I spend almost a week getting in as much climbing as possible to get into better climbing shape. In that time I was able to establish one new route and climbed many routes that were new to me ranging from 5.10-5.12.

After that short stint in the desert I drove out to Yosemite with my friend Tyler. On the way we received word that the government might be shutting down and the park as a result would be closing and according to the news we received we had to be in the park by midnight to guarantee our admittance, and so the race was on. After arriving in Camp 4 at 1am and snoozing for a few hours before getting a site I met up with my friend Jack and began hashing out climbing plans for the next week. Yes we knew the park was shutting down and no, we were not letting that rain on our parade. Jack had spent the night with a couple of other friends hauling some bags up to Heart Ledges on El Capitan. The next day we set off climbing the Freeblast, the first 11 pitches of the Salathe Wall and the right number of pitches and rappels brought us to dinner and sleeping bags. We wound up spending 5 days and 4 nights on the wall as we were in no rush to get off as we knew we'd be kicked out upon descending so I was able to enjoy a unique experience sleeping thousands of feet off of the valley floor, watching raptors rocket past, wake up to sunlight peeking around The Nose and of course hauling hundreds of pounds of gear up a vertical face (Thank god for mechanical advantages).

After getting the boot from Yosemite Tyler and I returned to the Indian Creek for more desert escapades and some side trips to Durango for a couple of weeks. Highlights from this time included hanging out with Durango friends on their weekend trips out. Getting to climb with my awesome girlfriend and watching her onsight pitch after pitch one weekend. Catching up with friends from far away places, like Salt Lake City. Meeting/making new friends from the UK and Australia. As well as onsighting and sending a passel of 12's and other routes on my todo list.

In the middle of this time in the desert I was able to spend a weekend with my Grandpa and a whole bunch of family out in the Chicago area. It was pretty rad to hear so many stories from an 89 year old's life and perspective!

For now I will spend my days working, undertaking new projects, recovering from the last week of partying and prepping the van for winter.

Any winter themed topics I ought to address?...Any topics in general you guys want to hear about?

Looking across the valley from El Cap.

Looking up the route

The topo for The Salathe.

Getting ready for the day after a slightly uncomfortable night on the portaledge.

Looking up at the sunrise from El Cap. Spire.

Looking down the route, though my left foot is blocking most of the route.

Made it to the top to enjoy a spectacular sunset.

No parking...unless you're this guy!

Looking down valley from Scarface wall. Photo by David Canova

A fraction of the Durango gang. Photo by David Canova

Ready to Jazzercise for Halloween. Photo by Shelby George

Another Durango gathering. Photo by David Canova.

I think I might have more photos that I took while schralping the gnar and will hopefully post those up later this month.