Positive Mental Attitude

The ol’ P.M.A. is crucial for extended trips, living in a van and keeping the psyche high. I think that it’s probably a useful exercise even in the real world to try and find the best of sub-prime situations so as to prevent a downward spiral or that gloomy funk that it’s easy to get into. To be able to smile and laugh in the face of adversity and suffering feels quite delightful, at least in my experience. To do so requires on to embrace the situation completely and accept it for what it is rather than what you would prefer it to be. Sure everyone would like it to be 70 and sunny with butterflies and a soft breeze but, as my friend Jason said, “Rain is necessary for healthy plants, whoever says the weather is crappy is a spoiled brat who wants sunny weather 365 days a year.”  As I’ve said a million times before despite the constant inconveniences, life always works out perfectly in the end. I was inspired by a student last year after an off hand comment to try and be (or at least appear) comfortable and at ease in every possible situation that I can. To do so I have found requires a touch of P.M.A., open mindedness and flexibility.

Just yesterday I was perusing the Rock Warriors Way and stumbled across a chapter talking about climbing and the prime mindsets to be in while climbing in order to get to the tippy top in the best form possible. In this chapter there was a bunch of zen quotes and talk of approaching the climbs with minimal expectations and accepting the journey for what it is and not what you’d like it to be or expect it to be like. And I thought dang, that’s what I was writing for P.M.A., turns out there are no more original thoughts but how I get to say ‘hey look this is published and it says more or less the same things I’m saying so it must be legit.’ So good luck with the rest of your day, I’m sure you’ll be well rested post blog nap and ready to accept the good and the bad.

Heck all sorts of things can and will go wrong beyond the weather. Cars break down, unexpected bills pop up, injuries occur etc. Basically, what I said before still applies, perhaps these things will provide time to meet new folks, explore a new area, write a free guide book, give you time for self-reflection. I suppose that this is is probably just reiterating all those old proverbs and stuff about reaping what you sow and doors closing and opening and such so I’m sure little of this is new but it’s good to think about.

Time to scrap the todo list...

I figured since it's currently raining mud and hailing out here in the desert I might as well toss out another update on the past couple weeks. Basically, as with most of my adventures the best plans get modified or discarded. I've joined forces with a bunch of folks from Ouray and the Western slope and instead of doggedly pursuing my todo list of climbs out the in desert  I have ticked off a few and been heavily sidetracked into establishing new routes at one of my favorite walls, the Cliffs of Insanity. So far I have established five new pitches with a few partners and have my eye on maybe six more pitches. It has been super rewarding to see folks get psyched on climbing these new routes, establishing new routes and going on some sweet adventures.

As some of you know and others may have guessed the Cliffs of Insanity is a Princess Bride allusion and so half the fun (that's maybe a bit of an overstatement) has been coming up with suitable names for the new routes with my partners Jack and Dan. So far we've called one Mawwage as it's right next to True Love, one the Battle of Wits and a third the Better Brute Squad. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be psyched to hear them as I'm always making note of great route names.

Dan and I on the Battle of Wits(5.12) First Ascent Photographer: Unkown

Dan on Mawwage (5.9+) FA Photographer: Unkown

March adventures

This past month I've gotten to meet new friends, climb in new areas, climb with old friends and left one job with prospects of another after a break from work for climbing.

The first week of March I joined the FLC climbing club on a trip to Red Rocks, NV. This is a climbing area outside of Las Vegas with routes over a 1000' long with plenty of easy, moderate and difficult ones. The trip was largely uneventful as I ended up getting snowed out after only four days of climbing, though it was great to cruise up some easy and moderate routes as well as go for some rad hikes, see some wild burros and test out the new solar get up I got for the van this winter.

After leaving Las Vegas and taking a detour that tacked on an extra seven hours of driving through some blizzardy conditions I returned to Durango to resupply and get ready to move out to the desert (Indian Creek). I toodled on out there and have spent the last few weeks out there climbing with new friends and weekend warriors. I've been pretty psyched so far to have onsighted more than a few 5.11+ - 5.12 routes, seems like the muscle memory is still kicking and my climbing fitness that deteriorated over the winter is making a come back. Another highlight was the release of the new Indian Creek guide book that has several routes that I have established, it's official the word 'schloob' has been published.

First sunset back in the Creek with the N. Six Shooter

Summit of the S. Six Shooter

View from the Colorado River Overlook in Canyonlands

Oh dang.

Spencer with his favorite Joshua Tree

The start of the snowy driving, accompanied with some rather delightful views

Some wild burros that we tamed and rode back to camp

Almost to the climbs for the day!

I'm currently back in Durango as a result of a spontaneous decision to take a rest day...or three here. I'll be heading back, looking forward to a creekster celebration with a large group from Durango and the greater southwest area this weekend. I'm also pretty psyched to meet up with my buddy Kevin to work on Bellyful of Bad Berries, an overhung crack that I tried a few years ago and has been on my todo list since. Here's a link for those that are unfamiliar with this rather iconic climb.

Quick edit: Just had a sneek peek at my friend Spoon's film The Current and if any of you folks are in Durango around April 10th you should definitely consider checking out the premier of the movie! More details and a trailer and other info are HERE.